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Archive for February 18th, 2008

Book 39 of ???

The Secret by Kat Martin

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How I knit socks

First a couple of notes. I knit my socks toe up 2 at a time using the Magic Loop Method. I recommend that you choose a set of symmetrical increases (3 examples) before you start knitting the socks. I use method C. This will make a pair of socks for a size 9.5-10. These can also be done with 5 or 6 DPNs (I would recommend 6), if you choose [If you need info on working these with DPNs, leave a comment or contact me on Ravelry where I am Libbazet].

Yarn: “regular” sock yarn (Trekking, Opal, etc)
Needles: 2.5mm
Guage: app 9 sts X 11 rows per 1 inch
Terms: M1=Make 1

Toe:
Cast on 24 stitches (12 per needle) using Turkish cast-on (tutorial) [also appropriate figure-8 (tutorial) and Judy’s magic cast-on (tutorial)]

The single best piece of advice that I got about these cast-ons came from Kim Salazar of WiseNeedle in her Pine Tree Toe Up Socks pattern.

Don’t worry if the stitches running down the center are loose, in a couple of rows you can tighten them up by carefully working the excess down towards the dangling tail end.

Round 1: Knit (pay close attention to stitches they may be incorrectly oriented for the knit stitch)
Round 2: *K1, M1, K10, M1, K1* Repeat *to* for the second side of the sock (14 per side)
Round 3: *K1, M1, K12, M1, K1* Repeat *to* for the second side of the sock (16 per side)
Round 4: *K1, M1, K14, M1, K1* Repeat *to* for the second side of the sock (18 per side)
Round 5: *K1, M1, K16, M1, K1* Repeat *to* for the second side of the sock (20 per side)
Round 6 and subsequent even rounds: Knit
Round 7: *K1, M1, K18, M1, K1* Repeat *to* for the second side of the sock (22 per side)
Round 9: *K1, M1, K20, M1, K1* Repeat *to* for the second side of the sock (24 per side)
Round 11 *K1, M1, K22, M1, K1* Repeat *to* for the second side of the sock (26 per side)
Round 13: *K1, M1, K24, M1, K1* Repeat *to* for the second side of the sock (28 per side)
Round 15: *K1, M1, K26, M1, K1* Repeat *to* for the second side of the sock (30 per side)
Round 17: *K1, M1, K28, M1, K1* Repeat *to* for the second side of the sock (32 per side)
Round 19: *K1, M1, K30, M1, K1* Repeat *to* for the second side of the sock (34 per side)
Round 21: *K1, M1, K32, M1, K1* Repeat *to* for the second side of the sock (36 per side)

Main foot:
Round 22: Knit
Repeat Round 22 until sock measures desired length before gusset.

  • How to figure gusset and heel length:
    Measure your row gauge. Divide the stitches
    per side by the row gauge. This is the length of
    the gusset and heel.

    • Example: My row gauge is 12. 36/12=3 I want to start the gusset 3
      inches short of total desired length.

For me that is approximately 6.5-6.75 inches (I knit both socks at the same time, so I don’t count rows. If you are knitting the socks individually, you may want to count rows.)

Decide which side will be the top and which will be the sole. The next section starts with the sole side. Knit half a round if you need to, I promise it will be okay.

Gussets:
Round 1 Sole: K1, M1, K34, M1, K1 (38 sts)– Top: Knit
Round 2 and all even rounds: Knit
Round 3 Sole: K1, M1, K36, M1, K1 (40 sts)– Top: Knit
Round 5 Sole: K1, M1, K38, M1, K1 (42 sts)– Top: Knit
Round 7 Sole: K1, M1, K40, M1, K1 (44 sts)– Top: Knit
Round 9 Sole: K1, M1, K42, M1, K1 (46 sts)– Top: Knit
Round 11 Sole: K1, M1, K44, M1, K1 (48 sts)– Top: Knit
Round 13 Sole: K1, M1, K46, M1, K1 (50 sts)– Top: Knit
Round 15 Sole: K1, M1, K48, M1, K1 (52 sts)– Top: Knit
Round 17 Sole: K1, M1, K50, M1, K1 (54 sts)– Top: Knit
Round 19 Sole: K1, M1, K52, M1, K1 (56 sts)– Top: Knit
Round 21 Sole: K1, M1, K54, M1, K1 (58 sts)– Top: Knit
Round 23 Sole: K1, M1, K56, M1, K1 (60 sts)– Top: Knit
Round 24: Knit

Heel:
I lift the bar and twist for these increases.
Row 1: K18 (flap edge), PM, K23, M1, K1, PM (18 sts unworked for other edge), Turn [25 sts between Markers]
Row 2: Sl1, P23, M1, P1, Turn [26 sts between Markers]

Starting with Row 3 you will have unworked stitches between the markers.
Row 3: Sl1, K22, M1, K1, Turn [27 sts between Markers]
Row 4: Sl1, P21, M1, P1, Turn [28 sts between Markers]
Row 5: Sl1, K20, M1, K1, Turn [29 sts between Markers]
Row 6: Sl1, P19, M1, P1, Turn [30 sts between Markers]
Row 7: Sl1, K18, M1, K1, Turn [31 sts between Markers]
Row 8: Sl1, P17, M1, P1, Turn [32 sts between Markers]
Row 9: Sl1, K16, M1, K1, Turn [33 sts between Markers]
Row 10: Sl1, P15, M1, P1, Turn [34 sts between Markers]
Row 11: Sl1, K14, M1, K1, Turn [35 sts between Markers]
Row 12: Sl1, P13, M1, P1, Turn [36 sts between Markers]
Row 13: Sl1, K12, M1, K1, (you will need to remove the marker to do the next stitches) SSK (1 st from heel and 1 from flap edge), Turn

Heel flap:
Row 1: Sl1, P35, (you will need to remove the marker to do the next stitches) P2tog, Turn
Row 2: *Sl1, K1,* repeat * to * 17 times (36 sts worked), SSK, Turn
Repeat Rows 1 & 2 up the 18 flap stitches
End Row 2 when all 18 stitches have been worked [there will still be one stitch unworked on the other side]
Knit across the front
Sole: K2tog (last unworked stitch), K34, K2tog
Knit across the front
You now have 72 stitches (36 per side) again.

Leg:
Knit (or do pattern) until the leg is a length that you like.
K2, P2 ribbing

Bind Off:
K1-K1-Pass over-*P1-put 2 stitches from Rt needle back onto Left needle-P2tog-P1-put 2 stitches from Rt needle back onto Left needle-P2tog-K1-Pass over-K1-Pass over* continue * to * around the leg.

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